Batumi Batumi Batumi

Monday 21^st August 2011

We are heading off to Batumi today.  It is a late start as we are working according to Georgian time and we are told that we will leave for Kareli to catch the Marshutka to Batumi after breakfast.  Breakfast is a leisurely affair and starts late and so it is not until 11 that we finally leave the house.  We get out of the car at the Marshutka stop which is a known place with no official stop signs or markings and there are already a motley crew of people waiting.  There is a buzz of excitement with cars pulling in to drop off or wait for new arrivals.  Reversing in makes no provision for the waiting crowd and people kind of move out of the way and don’t complain when cars almost run into them.  They live on a knife edge these people!.  Beso, as you would expect is on the road watching for oncoming marshutkas, cigarette in hand then mouth and so on.  He is like an anxious mother hen over his chicks.  Martin chick waits close by but Nino announces that we (Nino and Jennifer chicks) have to wait in the car.  For some reason that escapes me I meekly turn round and get back in the car with Nino and wait until I am told to get out again.  This is a very interesting experience that I will no doubt think about further!  FFS!

Marshutkas are minibuses that shunt people around the country.  It seems that buses and trains supplement the marshutka system which is not officially timetabled and the only way to find out which marshutkas will take you to a particular place is by asking someone.  In this respect we have to rely on the family to help us.  Beso drove us to the marshutka stop but if we had operated independently then it would have been at least an hour’s walk.  If we tried to do that they would have been really hurt and rejected; it would have been beyond their comprehension.  Our marshutka was in good condition and quite smart inside and we took seats at the back thinking this would be a good idea as we could stretch out on the 4 to 5 hour journey.  We didn’t realise we could have put our luggage in the boot which would have been a better idea as we had to sit with our rucksacks on our laps as more passengers filled the mini-bus!  Also the air con vents were just in front of us so we didn’t get the benefit of the air conditioning which also explained why the other passengers didn’t seem that hot and want the windows open.

We travelled up the mountains that divide East and West Georgia and this was a spectacular sight.  It was also a little scary.  At one point we were attempting to overtake 6 vehicles on a bend unable to see further ahead than the front vehicle which was an articulated lorry.  I actually said a “Hail Mary” from the heart as I thought we could seriously end up dead.  The driver pulled in after the 3^rd vehicle so we lived to tell the tale.  This crazy driving continued all the way.  They are maniacs.  The thrill seekers among you, forget extreme sports, become a marshutka driver instead.  Another interesting moment was when the man in front of us opened the window (ahh a cool breeze!) and then his young son put his head out of the window.  I had visions of it being knocked off his shoulders by a skilful overtaking manoeuvre but no – he was vomiting – and poor Martin got a face-full.  Luckily I have a supply of wet wipes and he is as fresh and pungent in no time at all lol.

The rest of the journey – all 5 hours - is uneventful but included a stop at a roadside bread stall where pink plastic bags of bread were passed around and exchanged for 1 lari and a strong smelling man sat next to me for half an hour.

Luckily for us the teachers that arrived early in Batumi sorted out an apartment for us to stay in with 3 bedrooms and a lounge which allowed 10 of us to sleep there in all and a large space to hang out.  We were in a good position directly opposite a western style cafe and close to the beach. 

The family was still packing up when the first of our group arrived! 

We slept on the very lumpy sofa bed with the tin roof above us 

One of the bedrooms with a balcony looking out over the main street 

Rob on Eukalaili, Caitlin singing on her back and Greg (right) 

Chillin’. Irene from Detroit at back, Ren from Louisiana (Centre), Adam (right) Australia 

We didn’t arrive until 4 in the evening and we dumped our stuff in the apartment and went for a swim on the beach until it started raining.  The sea is lovely, warm, dark and not salty but the beach is rocky, and is murder on the feet!

Make your mind up time Omelette or Pizza? – Simon from York (left) , Rob from Colorado and Greg from LA

Me and Irene walking round the fountains 

Tuesday 22nd August 2011

We woke up to the sound of heavy rain which made a huge noise as the roof is made of tin.  When it rains here is doesn’t do it in halves.  Didn’t go to the beach today and had a walk around the town.  We went to one of the art museums with Rob, Jacob and Caitlin which was really nice.  

Funny stories of the other teachers experiences.

Caitlin was off to have a shower in the outside shower block when her host mother said “No me first!” and so Caitlin started to leave “No Sit! Sit!” so she did and the host mother stripped off and showered in front of her saying “Sorry! Sorry!” What was that about?   No-one knew.  Also we couldn’t work out what was going on with stapling toys to the walls.  My host daughter – Nino - has 3 Barbie dolls in boxes stapled to the wall (“I love Dollies!”) Caitlin said the same in her house but she has a teddy bear that has been stapled as well which looks like it has been crucified and scares her shitless.

Jacob’s host mother is also his school director and he thinks his host father is a marshutka driver.  Soon after arriving he is asked to go with the host father.  “No you don’t have to” says the host daughter rather concerned, but he says no it’s ok and off he goes.  They drive around the village and say hello to lots of people and then the father gets out wads of money and peels off a few notes and hands it over to different people.  What do you reckon – money lending?

Adam’s family took him up to the mountains the day after arriving as the duck season was starting until the 30^th.  He said that there is a lot of drinking going on and his host mother prepares food and then scuttles away.  He is offered vodka to drink for breakfast on his own.  There is nothing good about that statement.  Vodka, breakfast, alone.  Apparently he was filmed for TV as at the start of this season they do a 21 gun salute and he was asked to be one of the 21.  He was wearing a pink t-shirt unlike his fellow hunters and probably scared off all the ducks.  He has an outdoor hole for a toilet and hadn’t had a shower since he left Tbilisi.  The kitchen is filthy.

Irene’s house has chickens walking all over it and no-one speaks English.  She has found a cafe (plastic chair on the road side) and has been befriended by an English speaking woman who has arranged for her to be taken to various places by a friend and is tutoring her in Georgian.  The toilet situation concerned most of us teachers and we were certainly relieved to find we had a western style toilet.  Irene drew the short straw, as she literally has a pot to piss in and has to take it to the hole in the outhouse.

Wednesday 23^rd August 2011

The family text me or call me every day to find out when we are coming home.

Batumi is a very upmarket sophisticated resort which is subject to huge investment of hotels and casinos.  It is aimed at the wealthy foreigner and I don’t see how locals can afford the exclusive designer style bars on the beach.  The area by the beach is beautifully paved and is lined by imported palm trees that are lit up at night.  The place has a buzz of excitement and not just because of the dancing fountains just past the university!

 Some stalls selling magazines and cigarettes.  People just set up at the side of the road or in doorways and some split packs of cigarettes and sell individual fags!

 Another Stall

Another stall - cigarettes and sunflower seeds - essential kit!

The guide told us that the apartment blocks are painted bright colours because of the rain in winter to make it more cheerful.

It is a working sea port

 Although a important port on the Silk Road from Asia to Europe for centuries much of the current buildings were build in the 1900’s

The University.  Our guide told us it was pretty only from the outside.  The front of the university is an attached modern building.

I think this structure was built in the 1930’s and fits in with the sea front theme nicely. A park runs alongside the sea.

I have to show you 1 of my many sunset at Batumi photos.  I know all sunsets are fantastic when you take time to stop and look at them but the sky was an inky Prussian blue and the sunlight piercing the sky was the most intense orange.  Stunning.

And of course 1 dancing fountain photo of many.  I believe this was squirted in time to Barry Manilow “I write the songs ...”

One of the huge hotels and casinos being built on the sea front at Batumi 

We went to the Tourist information office and booked a coach trip to the fortress at Gonio which then took us onto the border of Turkey and Georgia at Sarfi.  The weather was rainy and it was an opportunity to check out a couple of attractions easily for 18GEL (£7.50) each.  In the end it cost 25GEL(£9.50) as there were only 4 of us on the trip but what this meant was that we had one-to-one guides. 


Health and safety is not an issue at all in Georgia as you may have gathered by now.  This is a very old fortress set by the mouth of the river and close to the mountains.  You can still climb the steps up to the parapets which is very nice although calling them steps is a little too generous.  About a foot wide, irregular and moss covered with no hand rail is a more accurate description.  I have the wisdom of years now and knew that although I could climb up, with my fear of heights I would NEVER EVER, EVER get down.  I would need helicopter assistance or a fireman’s lift.  Martin of course is metamorphisising before my eyes and leapt up like a spring chicken (or goat) and I don’t know how he managed to get down again as I just couldn’t look.   

Wot no handrails?

We went on to Sarfi which was pleasant enough.  Very few people, a few bars but as many stones on the beach as Batumi.  Quite a few smallish hotels which looked reasonable and this would be a nice option if you want a quieter time.  Unexpectedly (I say unexpectedly as the tour guides didn’t even know we were going to Sarfi, until I asked why the tour was only an hour instead of the stated 3 hours and we didn’t realise there was a museum involved) we were taken to an Archaeological museum and given a personal guided tour by the curator in English.  Georgia has a rich history and it was really interesting and we were taken through each of the display cases and explained what the items were used for giving insight into the way people lived. They knew what kind of wine they drank as they had found the grape seeds used and the kind of perfume that was worn by men and women.

Sarfi – this is the border of Turkey and Georgia.  You can see the mosque on the Turkish side.

Sarfi – this is the Church to St Andrew on the Georgian side.

Thursday 25^th August 2011

We decided to stay for another night in Batumi before we return to our host family as we wanted to have time to ourselves and really wanted something a bit more luxurious to wallow in and have some privacy.  We wandered around trying to find the hotels that we had checked out a couple of days before but had no luck.  We had a map and tried to retrace our steps but could not find either the sleazy hotel for 70GEL (£27) room and breakfast for us both, with the sauna and easy-wipe-clean red vinyl headboards or the more expensive 103GEL(£39) hotel with the connection with dolphins or fish.  


We were approached by an old woman who said amongst many the word “sasturmo” (hotel) and gestured for us to follow her.  Not one to say no to anything we traipsed after her relieved that our problem of a roof was solved.  We were taken through an alley way and robbed and beaten up.  Not really just kidding “Ram badia” (You’re kidding - or something like that) A woman was offering homestay for 20GEL (£7.60) a night each.  We chose the largest of 2 rooms which was really grim – that smoked out yellow colour.  This was meant to be cosy romantic evening not something out of the “L-Shaped room”! But we said “Yes” then she showed us the bathroom which had a western toilet (good) a shower (Good) a baby bath to stand in (not good) a big boiler on the wall with complicated instructions to switch on (not good) plus buckets of washing soaking (not good) She made up the bed, Martin went out and smoked and left me with his wallet to pay.  This was not what we wanted so we said “sorry ....” she was willing to charge us 15GEL each a night that’s £5.71 but we had to disappoint her. 


We walked around for another HOUR and FOUND the hotel we were looking for.  Air conditioning, nice shower, TV with only Turkish news and religious programs, balcony, fridge, lumpy bed (well it was too much to expect in Georgia lol)

We had a great evening in a funny little restaurant.  It was a formica table-top jobbie which we liked the look of and the waitress spoke no English only Russian.  Unperturbed she showed us the picture board outside the restaurant and we pointed at what we thought looked like meat and we shouted “Meat! Meat!”  for additional emphasis. She nods and shows us to the posh bit downstairs in the basement which luckily is air-conditioned with loud Georgian music playing which is actually very enjoyable.  Sort of Eurovision meets Michael Buble.

Frances’ Pashmina gets an airing

The Batumi beach is embedded in the restaurant walls 

The walls are studded with huge beach pebbles and carefully varnished which along with the music creates rather a surreal effect of being in a sea cave waiting for pirates.  We cannot resist getting up and dancing a kind of Cossack mash smooch as we are completely alone.  The food is a potato with a kofte kebab and what looks like a braised beef rib.  Yum Yum! Full of flavour and totally delicious.  What we needed was a pudding to finish it off.  Language barrier no longer a barrier as waitress is armed and ready with a mobile phone and a sleepy English speaking person on the other end.  “Dessert, Shakari, Cake!” I cannot resist throwing in the new addition to my Georgian repertoire ‘sugar’ just to aid communication.  This works and we are served with a beautiful piece of plum topped cake.  Yum Yum.  With 2 pints of Ludi (local beer) and coffee  this meal comes to 40GEL around £15 which is pretty good value in a busy upmarket resort like Batumi.

Thursday 25^th August 2011

We sorted out the return trip by marshutka without event and took the 5 hour journey back home.

We had yet another “Hail Mary” moment when our driver was overtaking 4 vehicles on a bend (first vehicle was a vehicle carrier) and then at the same time another vehicle decided to overtake us FFS!  Developing a point system for driving scariness was something to focus my mind on in these dark times and so here it is.

Overtaking on a bend 3 points; 1 point for each vehicle being overtaken; sheer drop either side of vehicle 3 points; driver on phone at same time as overtaking 6 points; being overtaken by another vehicle at same time as overtaking 3 points; driving head-on into oncoming traffic 3 points; cutting in front of another vehicle leaving less that 3 feet space between you and the vehicle in front 2 points; previous situation but doing more than 70mph at same time 5 points; previous situation but vehicle in front is an articulated lorry 7 points.

Please feel free to revise or add additional criteria.

Arrived at Kareli marshutka spot in the road and found Beso and So-so waiting for us.  You know what?  It was really great to see him and our hugs expressed genuine warmth.  As we drove back, we both looked around and thought that we had come home and the scenery was the best we had seen so far.  Such has been our welcome and impact of the Georgian people on our lives in 2 short weeks.

Much to-do in the house as we found out that Beso’s sister, her husband and their 3 year old daughter is coming to stay tonight for 20 days.  This is the first time they have been back home since the birth of their daughter Lydia.  The whole house has been cleaned and scrubbed by the women. Maia showed me the blisters on her hands.  Beso has bought a new cow.

The men do some guy stuff - spray paint the wing mirrors and radiator grill of the car with black paint.  This involved newspaper, paint, sticky tape and 3 very happy men.

Martin, Beso, and So-So play with the car with Katya watching 

I had a go at milking the cow which was a first for me and then while Maia filled the bucket (after 3 squirts I left it to her!!) I brushed the cow with leaves for the next 20 minutes to clear the flies so the tail wouldn't hit Maia instead.  The men come and work out how old it is by counting the ridges on its horns – looks like it is 8 or 9 years old.

Beso and Neli leave for the airport at around 11 and Maia stays up all night cleaning and cleaning waiting for their return with the welcomed guests.